In the second week of our trip we made a last-minute decision to extend our trip by one day (leaving Sunday July 11th instead of Saturday July 10th) so that we could try and see the active volcano that is erupting just outside Reykjavik. Unfortunately, as the day grew closer, it appeared as though things wouldn’t pan out since the volcano hadn’t been erupting for several days. I was really bummed at the thought that we would miss out on such a once-in-a-lifetime experience. But then the volcano came through for me and started spurting again on the morning of the day we had hoped to visit!
Our Foreign Service friends are posted in Iceland and they gave us the lowdown on the volcano viewing path options. Conditions are constantly changing, so they told us to monitor safetravel.is for path information and volcanoweather.is for weather info and check both just prior to going. Path A had recently been closed off due to lava runoff cutting across the hiking path. So that left options B and C. Option C is the most common route because it’s a bit easier and shorter. Nick doesn’t like places that have a lot of people and we heard that the wind and gas smells were worse on that path.
Option B, on the other hand, was longer and steeper but was supposedly less windy (debatable) and had less gas fumes. We opted for that one. The walk took us about 1 hour and 15 minutes to get there and that was at a pretty steady clip. Coming back we made it in closer to 45 minutes (likely because we were really cold and eager to get back in the warm car).
The wind really started to blow when we started up this switchback. This is about the point when I started doubting our decision. Would we really make it? Should we have chosen the simpler, more common path? Alas, we were already too far in to turn back and we were really determined to see it. So on we went.
After the switchback we walked on flat land for a bit and then had the final ascent up a mountain to the viewpoint. It was crazy-windy by this point and COLD. In the upper 40’s, I’d guess, with about 20-25 mph winds. We each had 3 layers on and were still freezing! Nick was entirely focused on making sure Nia didn’t blow off the mountain. I was just trying to maintain my footing with the wind blowing me off my center of balance and the dang rocks everywhere. It was challenging, to say the least. I kept having to crouch down in a little ball to wait out the really big wind gusts. Just wild! I do not recommend mountain climbing on windy days!
But it was all worth it when we crested the final slope and saw this!
Quite honestly, it didn’t feel real. I kept having to remind myself that this wasn’t a movie on Nat Geo! It was exploding on a pretty regular interval too, so we got to see lots of action.
There were also quite a few helicopter tours taking tourists near the crater. I was shocked at how close they were getting to it! Given that a basic burger and fries in Iceland are $25, I don’t even want to guess how much a helicopter tour must be!
Honestly, though, it was one of the coolest experiences I’ve had in my life. It all felt very surreal. Mother nature is one powerful lady! The volcano has been active since late March and it’s hard to predict how long it will keep going but scientists speculate it should go at least through the end of the year. I can’t emphasize enough what a privilege it is to see this live. It’s crazy accessible and set up for tourists. I can’t ever imagine the U.S. allowing people this close to an active volcano. So if you can, get to Iceland in 2021 (even if it’s just for a one day stopover on your way to Europe). You won’t regret it.
Resources and tips for those planning a trip to the volcano:
- Parking is 1000 ISK. You need to pay via mobile phone, so make sure you have a device with data that will allow you to connect to internet.
- Parking fills up. Earlier is better for crowds.
- The first parking lot you come to is for Route B. If you’re arriving early in the day it won’t be very full. The second parking lot is for Route C. It will have a decent amount of cars, even early in the day. Park accordingly. We parked by C and took B, which added extra walking to our trip.
- Prior to going, monitor these sites:
- Volcano Weather – https://volcanoweather.is/
- Route & Safety Information – https://safetravel.is/eruption-in-reykjanes
- Live Webcams to check if there’s activity: https://www.visitreykjanes.is/en/volcano-eruption/eruption-information/webcams-from-the-eruption-site
- Hiking and parking info: https://www.visitreykjanes.is/en/volcano-eruption/eruption-information/hiking-and-parking
- Prep accordingly:
- Dress in layers, especially if wind is forecasted. It will be very cold high up!
- Also, good hiking boots are a must for Route B. Not sure about C but I would guess so.
- Bring water.
- Parking lot C had a ranger by the path entrance. If you’re unsure of which path is best for you, ask them. I believe they are there from noon until 6 PM.
